A Lost World in Antwerp

In Antwerp, we heard about this interesting place in the middle of the city that is a walled-in housing area with a central courtyard surrounded by small apartments. It was started by women of a Roman Catholic order in the 13th century. These catholic women, beguines, were looking for holiness instead becoming a nun.

Although they lived and prayed together for protection, historians believed they banded together after losing husbands to the crusades. This beguinage was surrounded by tall red brick walls and when we decided to visit, there was a light rain falling. When we entered the passage gate, we noticed how peaceful and tranquil the entire grounds were.


The small apartments surrounded a courtyard area.

The courtyard shut out the busy world outside.  There was an old wrought iron fence with gates at each end.  Herbs and flowers and well-manicured shrubs bordered a peaceful walking path.  There are 29 beguinages in Belgium, more than in any other country. 
 

Each apartment had the name of a saint inscribed over the door. In the 17th century, more than 220 women lived around this courtyard. Now, elderly women and retired couples can rent these apartments.  There are about 100 residents there today.


 
A chapel sits at one corner of the square that is typical of all these beguinages. 
 
Where I am standing, you can see modern buildings in the background, but you could not hear the traffic anywhere behind the walls and dwellings.  I can understand why these women lived in this charming and zen-like environment. 

The entire area was no more than half a city block.  Just a narrow cobblestone driveway separates the apartment entries from the courtyard.  It was like entering a little village completely apart from the city beyond.  If you want to read more about "A Lost World Made by Women," check out this link: http://www.mindfood.com/at-women-beguines-europe-catholic-laic-order-feminism.seo

Tschus!

In Bruges

Last week, I accompanied Pete on a business trip to Antwerp, Belgium. So on the weekend we took a side trip to Bruges near the North Sea coast. If you haven't seen the movie "In Bruges" yet, you're missing a beautifully photographed (but also violent) portrayal of this city. It is a classic old European city with canals, cathedrals, cobbled stone streets, and wonderful shops and restaurants.

The historic center is literally encircled by a canal that was at one time a moat for their walled city. It's name comes from the Viking word for "wharf" because in the beginning it was a port of the North Sea until the harbor silted in. That caused the townspeople to pick up and mostly abandon the city. That's why the center is so well preserved.

The Markt Square Belfort (tower) is the focal point of the square. With every turn you take, there's another great picture.
Horse drawn carriages along with colorful buildings add to the ambiance.

Just in front of the Belfort is a small metal model of the tower and a Braille description of the old town in 4 different languages! It was really cool.



It's Belgium, so there's a chocolate museum, Yay! The museum explains how chocolate started in the ancient Mayan and Aztec cultures. Chocolate was considered a drink of the gods. I agree. Unfortunately, we have Cortez to thank for bringing chocolate to Spain and then Europe after he ruined their culture.


Pete loved the Wall of Beer, which displays most of the 580 different brands of beer all brewed in Belgium. We tried a few of those on the wall, and loved each one.


Bruges is called the "Venice of the North" because of all the canals running through the city center. There were even more during it's heyday but many have been filled in for modern travel.

In the Church of Our Lady is one of only two Michelangelo sculptures outside of Italy. The Madonna and Child is sculpted from Carrara marble like most of his work. The sculpture was so close you could almost touch it.

Another unique building and museum is the old city hall. The city council met in the restored Gothic room from the early 1400s. The wooden ceiling is hand-painted and carved with hanging arches. Large murals along the walls show a history of big events in Bruges.

We really enjoyed this 2-day visit. During this time of year, there are far less tourists so I can only imagine on a nice, sunny summer day how many people would be here. But, this is not to be missed and it's a shorter drive for us than going from Brookings to Minneapolis.




....even the swans love it here.
Tschus!

One Year Later... We Belong

This weekend we realized it's been one year since our move to Germany. Just like we thought, it went fast. So we re-traced our first and what has become our regular Saturday walk - down the hill into the Marktplatz. We met our friends in the usual spot, walked past the Kur House and into the market.



The weather this year was more mild and almost springlike - and the flower booth displayed their fresh flowers outside instead of under a heated tent.



Friends come and go around here. Patty and Gary who came to our home about one year ago bearing beer and candy, are still here but shortly moving back to the states. But new friends have entered the scene. They are expats from England and have been living here almost 3 years.


In the market, we found fresh produce, then went to our favorite (yes, favorite) breakfast place - Halt Bar. Afterwards, some went shopping and others had a beer. As ever, people are out and about on Saturday. Then, taking a short break, we went home and re-grouped before trying a new Italian restaurant... believe it or not, we still haven't tried every one in town yet.


On Sunday, we did what the locals do... take a walk in the park. It was the same walk we have done for almost a year. It was a sunny day and even more springlike than Saturday. It seemed like the whole city was in the park that day.


During the winter, the beautiful old homes bordering the park are more visible. We passed trees with bunches of mistletoe hanging in the branches.


We passed some of the usual sites, including Pete's favorite (all along the)Watchtower. A castle in the neighboring community - one of many along the Rhine just a few miles further.


Then, it was time for coffee and cakes - a favorite pastime for Germans - in a former hospital converted into a restaurant. The hipsters hang here. But not on Sunday.



So, one year later, we toured our own city, feeling like we belong.
Tschus!

Back in the USSR.... for the first time.

Before Christmas, I was able to visit Moscow for the first time. Of course, it was mostly a business trip, and Mary was already back in South Dakota. But business is booming in Moscow. Not just the Olympics and World Cup but Malls! There are high-end luxury brand stores and malls all over the city center.

But there was also this grand old communist-era delicatessen. Back in the day, only the elite frequented this store, now it's open to everyone (so says my colleague who grew up in Moscow).
For 4 days, I only caught a glimpse of Red Square as I slowly past by its signature red brick walls (traffic is sometimes so slow, you go a city block in 15 minutes). You only have private drivers, there aren't many taxis... more on that later.

I finally got there thanks to Minnesota friend Sodie, who's also doing business in Russia in the hockey industry. It was raining and really late, but we got there using a hand taxi. Ok, what's that? Well, you walk out into the street, stick out your hand and, well, anyone with a car picks you up. And for a few rubles, drops you off where you want to go. I didn't ask questions but it was very efficient and better than walking in the rain. Probably not recommended by the local travel agencies.



Christmas is alive and well in Russia... imagine seeing these scenes even 20 years ago...













And, thank goodness, there's a Starbucks! Some things you just can't live without.



When I came home, I couldn't wait to hear the Beatles White album...back in the USSR...and imagine what Moscow must have been like in 1968.

Tschus, comrades.